Queen of the Vineyards
by michelle morgan
As a young lawyer in San Francisco in the 80’s, it was customary for legal associates to drive time-sensitive briefs to a law partner’s home. In the ancient days, before fax machines, email, and wi-fi, office employees were forced to interact, an environment that inadvertently contributed to opened pathways, to form bonds, identify mentors, and build unexpected relationships. While a law student, Theodora “Theo” Lee met Barbara Oddone, who not only showed her the ropes at her law practice, but also shared her love of wine.
After dining at the Oddone residence, Barbara’s husband Pier encouraged Theo to take the tractor out and survey the Oddone Vineyards, in Dry Creek Valley. The tractor ride proved to be a pivotal moment for Theo, as it took her back to her youth in Dallas Texas. She was hooked. Pier and Barbara Oddone, provided Theo with guidance and mentorship throughout her wine journey, from helping her find land, to eventually planting and managing her vineyard.
Stepping out on faith, Theo pulled equity out of her home in Oakland, to purchase 20 acres in the Yorkville Highlands. She hired a former professor as a consultant, to test the soil’s suitability for growing specific varietals. It was determined that Petite Sirah grapes would be the most likely to propagate on the land under the existing conditions. Growing sun-loving Cabernet Sauvignon grapes was ruled out because portions of the acreage were shaded in the early evening, due to their proximity to a grove of redwood trees.
With her operation up and running, just a few years out of The Great Recession, Theo was forced to make the difficult decision to harvest her winegrapes early at 21 brix (a ripeness measurement based upon the sugar content of grapes). Since the grapes were contracted for 25 brix, the buyer rejected the entire 10 tons of harvested grapes. Moreover, Theo’s real estate investments that had been thriving up until this time, began to flounder. She recalled a challenging time, “I got out of it, but did not have [any] money in 2012. I lost my shirt.”
Being an astute and creative problem solver has its priveledges, especially in times of trouble. Theo reached out to one of her mentors, “Mac” McDonald owner of Vision Cellars to strike a barter--her grapes for his wine production. They worked out a deal where half of the fruit would go to Vision Cellars and Mac would bottle the other half for Theopolis Vineyards. The wine needed to stay in the barrels for two years. In 2014, that 2012 Petite Syrah won Gold from the Sunset International Wine Competition. Forging her destiny from an assured disaster, Theo branded Theopolis Vineyards and committed herself to the art of winemaking.
The accolades continued, and in 2016, the September Issue of Somm Journal listed the 2013 Theopolis Vineyards Estate Grown Petite Sirah as Best in Class, aka the best Petite Sirah in the world. In 2020, Theo was recognized as a 2020 Wine Industry Leader by Wine Business Monthly. In 2021, she was Wine Enthusiast’s 22nd Annual Wine Star Award Person of the Year Nominee. The 2018 Theopolis Vineyards Estate Grown Petite Sirah was ranked #16 in the Wine Enthusiast Top 100 Cellar Selections for 2021.
The outpouring of recognition, from an industry that is often considered to be challenging to navigate and exclusionary, puts Theopolis Vineyards in an elite category of boutique winemaking--and she hasn’t stopped breaking down barriers. In November, Theo made history
First photo: “Theo” and VISTAS publisher Patrice Davenport, after a succesful photo shoot. Cover photo shoot by Ramone Messam. Article photos provided courtesy of Theodora Lee.
as the first Black female vintner to host the Essence of Burgundy and Provence Wine Cruise (AmaWaterways). The week-long luxury excursion featured award-winning Theopolis Vineyards varietals including Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Rhone Blend, and Chardonnay paired with fine dining from renown chefs.
Theo is committed to doing her part “to ensure equality and inclusivity for future generations.” She recently established the Theopolis Vineyards Diversity Fund to support underrepresented and minority students pursuing a degree in the Department of Viticulture and Enology at UC Davis. Each year, a scholarship of up to $10,000 is awarded to students interested in viticulture and enology, related research, or managing a vineyard. She also gives back, as a longtime member and supporter of the Association of African American Vintners (AAAV), co-founded in 2002 by non other than her winemaking mentor Mac McDonald. AAVA’s mission is to provide a support network and African American vintners and wine industry professionals.
Barbara Oddone is still one of Theo’s biggest supporters. She and her husband Pier, attend the annual Harvest and Bottle Release Party and are longtime members of her wine club.
If we have learned one thing from Theo’s amazing journey, it is that mentorship matters. One mentor stoked her passion for wine, while the other guided her as she pivoted through treacherous roadblocks. This year marked 20 years since Theo planted her first Petite Syrah grapes. In 2024 Theopolis Vineyards will celebrate its 10 year anniversary as an official bonded winery. The litigator turned vintner has handled her ascension to the status of premium winemaker with a dazzling humor, determination, and grace. We salute Theo’s intelligence, perseverance, and resilence and for all of these reasons, we raise our glass to Theo-patra, Queen of the Vineyards.
The Spelman College and University of Texas Law School graduate is a partner and shareholder at Littler Mendelson. Between winemaking, litigating cases, public speaking, and events, Theodora Lee, enjoys traveling, spa days, hiking and biking. She is a proud member of Delta Sigma Theta Sorority, Inc.